Paula Weale Teaching in China

The second I stepped off the plane, I was faced with an example of what China is really like. The queues to get through immigration are chaotic and people push in wherever they can. I had to fight my way to the first desk to find no one speaks a word of English and very soon primitive sign language skills are developed out here. Once luggage is collected I found Yin (the Chinese Director) just outside the gate. Outside, the cold starts the settle in (along with the jet lag) and I was driven away from the industrial area surrounding the airport to the small town of Li Li. The countryside was not as green as I imagined and the towns larger yet still distinctively Chinese. Out here, you must contend with the constant stares of curiosity that convince you after a while that you have grown a tail and antlers. You soon get used to these though.

The first problem to overcome is the language. A phrase book does prove very handy. A tip to every volunteer going to China is to make sure you are familiar with the money. I found myself in a sticky situation where I had promised a rickshaw driver 5 yuan for a journey and handed over a 5 jiao note (which is basically worthless). The driver was understandably upset. It was only after I ran to get my host (who thankfully spoke English) that the situation was cleared up. Having a host family in these situations is really helpful.

The food here is nothing like the Chinese you find at the local take-away. It's only after eating here you realise how much the food is altered to suit western tastes back home. After eating rice 2 or 3 times a day for the first week, meals really become a chore. Add a couple of unusual local delicacies and you get the picture. The host family asked and soon learnt what I liked to eat. At lunch and dinnertime the table was soon filled with a mini feast of my favourite dishes! After a couple of weeks I could happily tuck into bowl after bowl of rice, vegetables and fish. My hosts encouraged me to try all manner of strange and wonderful fruits (always try something once and you may be pleasantly surprised!)

One of the major problems about coming to China during a winter month is the weather. English clothes are really not made to keep people warm for longer than the distance from house to car. Out here, the thermal vest is my best friend and 3 pairs of socks. The buildings are often colder than outside (it's still strange to come home from school and then put my coat on!). Buying local clothing is the best idea, and the host family are always willing to help were haggling is concerned (although the prices are so low it'll seem strange to want them lower at times). Hot drinks are always available, if not to drink then to warm your hands.

LiLi is a small town where the main street is only a half hour walk and there are no local taxis. You can buy most modern comforts in one of the many local supermarkets (except deodorant) and western brands are available at a price! It can be difficult to decide which bottle is conditioner, and which is shampoo but it's all a trial and error experience out in China!

The day of my first lesson was really nerve wracking. I had the first week to watch classes and prepare my own but I'm not a qualified teacher so all I had was my native language. I was amazed at where inspiration would appear from and after initial hiccups the lessons were great and I found enthusiasm I never knew I had. The students are very keen to speak with me and improve their English since this is the first time they have seen a western person. They'd bring in cameras and books for me to sign between classes so it's like being a celebrity in rural China. Make sure to bring pictures from home, as these are immensely popular! There will always be problem students however the majority want to learn from me and become my friends. There are many weekend opportunities to take a class out to the park or skating in the town.

The length of the school day really surprised me when I arrived as the students start class at 7am, then through till 9pm. There are only a couple of hours break for meals and the rest of the time (including weekends) they study. I only have two 45 minute classes a day and the rest of the time I have students keen to see me. It's an amazing (and tiring) experience, which I'll never forget.

Outside of LiLi, there are buses to the surrounding areas including the beautiful Suzhou, Hangzhou and of course Shanghai. These city breaks are always welcome after a busy week in the country. In Shanghai there are shops selling every western product you could wish for, along with the traditional Chinese souvenirs (some too big and expensive to even imagine taking home, however much I'd like to). The cities are filled with smells, noise, crowds, and of course the culture which is purely Chinese. You have to come here to experience it in all its glory and everyone who comes to China must try travelling by bus from Shanghai to their town. LiLi is a small town and not easy to reach. When dropped at a bus station with nothing but a piece of paper with my destination in Chinese, and a dictionary. I approached an official looking man who helped to put me on the correct bus. There is always someone around to help!

To anyone coming to China I'd say that living in the country is a real adventure. There are always people around you willing to help and those who you didn't think spoke any English suddenly know a few words or a phrase. Even at the supermarkets the English improves every visit! In China, you are clearly different and fascinating to local people. Some of the habits (such as spitting on the table and slurping soup) take some getting used to, but it's all part of the China experience!

Paula Weale